Jeff's First Potato - 9/20/2010
Jeff and I were taking a look at what still needed to be done in the garden for Fall when we had a discussion on when to harvest potatoes. He has about six plants of various varieties growing in the back yard, and they still look lush and green. I reached under one and to our surprise, pulled out a beautiful medium red potato
As a kid, I remember my Mom harvesting potatoes when the plants were brown and almost dead looking, so I called her, and indeed, this is when you should do your potato harvest. It usually happens in late August or early September; some people even wait until after the first frost. The plants will get yellow, then brown, and then look practically dead; THIS is the perfect time to harvest potatoes.
I was afraid that if we left them in too long, they would start to rot, but actually, if there is still green on the plants, the potatoes are still growing. If you harvest potatoes too soon, you will only get small potatoes, so it’s worth waiting. You can dig around at the top of the plant and pull a few out to see how big they are getting if you’re curious, then at least you’ll get a taste of what’s to come.
Since potatoes are tubers (not roots) they CAN withstand light frosts in the spring and will grow nicely in the cooler part of the growing season. So for now, we will continue to keep an eye on the plants and will probably harvest potatoes at the end of September. One of the plants is already starting to get brown, so I’m sure it won’t be long before we are eating our organic harvested potatoes. I can’t wait!
September 20th, 2010
It’s that time of season again when fruits and vegetables are plentiful and it’s time to eat a lot of them before they become scarce again. But would you want to cut into a prized square watermelon?
Just like the earth is not square, it really doesn’t seem like a watermelon should be square. But in Japan, farmers have been growing square watermelon for some time and the reason is that they’re different, and being different can bring you money! In fact, a nice square watermelon can sell for more than $80!
But why can farmers in Japan grow square watermelons and not those in the U.S. Well, I guess they just never thought about it – because it IS possible! Now, instead of just square foot gardening, you can be square watermelon gardening!
Imagine doing it in your own garden. Your friends will be amazed and confused. You could carve all kinds of things into a square watermelon. The main things you’ll want to know before you try growing your square watermelon next year are:
- Can you do it in your Region?
- What type of watermelon is best for “squareness?”
- What tools are needed?
- How old should the watermelon be before you shape it?
There are a lot of questions and a lot of things to consider if you really want a square watermelon – and not one that just looks deformed. If you’re interested, there is one person who has grown a square watermelon, and has documented it all!
Read more about the square watermelon here!
September 13th, 2010
This time of year is kind of a sad time for me as I start pruning roses for winter. I’ve taken care of them all summer, and now it’s time to cut them back. I don’t do major trimming in the Fall, but as I cut off what I assume are the last flowers of the year, I make sure to cut them down far enough for a nice pruning, while still leaving enough leaves on to feed the roots. And I also make sure to cut off any dead limbs at this time because I can be sure that they are no longer going to flourish.
I’ve been pruning roses for winter this way for several years and it’s never gone wrong for me. Then, as the leaves start to fall off, I pick them out of the dirt so they don’t spread disease through the winter. I have a terrible time growing roses with black spot where they’re planted, so I’m very careful not to leave any leaves in the garden that can infect the other plants next year.
Also, this year I’ve marked the plants I want to move around. We say we’re going to do this every year, but never get around to it. Now next year when they all look the same, we’ll know which ones didn’t do so well where they were planted, and can actually identify them! Look at that, we’re actually getting organized as we continue growing roses.
I also get sad when pruning roses for winter because the rose garden is the one plot of land I get to take care of while Jeff is busy with the rest of the gardening. It gives me peace of mind, and is MUCH more satisfying than cleaning house!
September 10th, 2010
The purple clematis vine that we have growing over an arbor is just beautiful this time of year! I think most of the flowers are now in bloom, but it has been blooming for almost a month. It’s one of the prettiest things in our back yard and showcases an area that Jeff calls his “park.” I like to call it the secret garden!
Pruning Clematis - Our clematis vine is summer/fall bloomer, which means it blooms on the current season’s growth. He wouldn’t HAVE to prune these clematis vines, but he does because if he didn’t, it would be an unruly mess. I can usually find him pruning clematis vines in the Fall, taking about 1/3 of the plant off. Also, if you don’t do some clematis pruning, you will NOT get as many flowers the next year. You can see that his strategy really pays off.
Pruning clematis that grow in the spring is a little different because spring blooming clematis flower on last year’s growth – you’ll need to do your pruning as soon as they finish blooming. Spring blooming clematis vines use the entire season to replenish themselves and set buds tor the next year.
At this point we prefer our summer clematis vine. It will be a real bummer when this beautiful clematis vine is done blooming.
August 1st, 2010
Hummingbirds are in full swing this time of year, and we have found that our bright plants in the garden are a great method to attract hummingbirds.
The red hot poker plants usually come up first in the spring, and boy do the hummingbirds love them! If you want to attract hummingbirds, and lots of them, you’ll want to get you some of these! Jeff says they are dripping with a honey-like substance, which the hummingbirds just love!
The poker plants are a bright red color. You’ll need to focus on bright colored plants with sweet nectar if you want to attract hummingbirds to your house with natural plants.
I think the bright colors attract hummingbirds because they can’t see too well. They are getting less afraid of people, in fact, here’s a picture of Jeff looking at one of the poker plants, and enjoying the hummingbird at the same time! If you move though, they will either fly away, or hover up and stare you right in the face to see if you are a threat.
We very much enjoyed the fact that this simple plant was able to attract hummingbirds to our garden this spring. They’ve now gone over to our neighbor’s house for awhile because his white hydrangea is in full bloom. We’re sure we’ll be able to entice them to come back with our bright orange lilies which are just now blooming! I can’t wait!
June 28th, 2010
Most people are familiar with the prefix “hydro” especially if you’re in the Western Washington area where the Hydroplane races take place. But we’re not here today to talk about boat racing; we’re going to discuss planting a hydroponics garden.
The Greeks originally developed the word Hydroponics by putting hydro (which means “water”) together with ponos, which means “labor or water-working”. Adding that all together we get hydroponic gardens which grow plants without soil.
Hydroponics gardening needs basically the same care as a regular garden. You need to pay attention to the plant’s needs for light, water, temperature, and humidity. What’s makes hydroponic gardens more interesting is that a soil substitute holds the roots while nutrients are carried by the water. Indoor hydroponic gardening is not that hard and plants respond well to this method of growing.
The nutrient solution that goes into the plant must have a pH level of 5 to 6 after dilution. The labor intensive part is that in hydroponics gardening, you should water more than three times a day. However, you can set up a system using a pump and timer to make things easier.
If you have an indoor hydroponics garden, it needs to be fairly warm inside. Usually between 71 to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. Of course, you’ll need to adjust temperature needs depending on the different types of plant you are growing (i.e. tropical plants vs vegetables). Also check for much needed humidity. As the temperature in the room rises, the air can hold the amount of moisture your plants need.
Light is of utmost importance in a hydroponic garden. Make sure your plants are placed in an area that gets the right amount of light for the plant – or use an artificial lighting system built with high pressure sodium lights or bulbs.
The nice thing is that a hydroponics system can be fully automated. It’s water-based, so there’s no soil to dig or weeds to pull. And water can be re-used to prevent waste. Hydroponics gardens can yield many quality plants, and home hydroponics systems and DIY kits are readily available in most hardware stores.
Review the Revolutionary Bubbleponics Systems Here
June 22nd, 2010
Some of the most beautiful animals in the world are butterflies. Rich in color and life, these insects are a pleasure to behold. Unfortunately, many species of butterflies have become instinct as their living space and food supply are threatened by humans.
But it’s not too late. You can help protect them or even increase their numbers by simple butterfly gardening. Butterfly gardening in your landscape works by growing plants that attract butterflies. Done properly, this kind of garden can be paradise for insect wildlife.
The first thing to do in butterfly gardening landscape is to locate a sunny spot in the garden. Butterflies need the sun’s warmth for their wing muscles to work efficiently. In fact, one can usually see them stretch their wings out in the sun, warming up enough to fly.
It is also important to put up the garden in an area that is clear of strong winds. Butterflies do not like strong winds and will avoid those kinds of places.
The next thing to consider in butterfly garden landscaping is to choose the plants well. There are four factors to keep in mind when making the selection. First, they should be brightly colored and scented. Butterflies are attracted to bright colors and strong fragrances.
Second, the plants should produce nectar since nectar is a staple food for butterflies. Nowadays, nectar producing plants are easy to grow. Planting different varieties of nectar producing flowers will attract even more species since some species are particular about the kind of nectar they eat.
Third, choose flowering plants that will bloom at different times in a season. This will ensure that the garden will always be colorful and attractive to butterflies. Furthermore, it ensures a steady supply of food for different species of butterflies.
Fourth, the garden should also have an abundance of host plants for the butterflies to lay their eggs on. The best host plants are the leafy ones where they can be source of shelter and food for larvae and caterpillars.
Providing an area with a rocky ledge is also a good idea for effective butterfly garden landscaping. Butterflies often perch on rocks to bask in the sun.
With the garden being an ideal habitat for butterflies, it is important to avoid the use of insecticides. These chemicals are toxic to butterflies.
Instead, use plants that are native to the area. Such plants already developed resistance to local pests and disease, reducing the need for pesticides. Also, introduce other creatures such as earthworms, ants or beetles. These insects eat up other insects that prey on flowers. Let nature take its course.
Effective butterfly garden landscaping will reward the gardener with a beautiful view of these lovely creatures. But more importantly, they provide these creatures a chance to survive and enjoy life of their own.
May 25th, 2010
After all the hard work, time and attention you put into you rose gardens, the last thing you want is to lose them due to rose diseases or fungus.
Unfortunately, proper planting, feeding, watering and sunlight are just not enough. To have healthy roses, you need to treat them properly to avoid getting rose diseases and infestations of mite and insects.
Rose disease control is an important part of maintaining beautiful and healthy roses. You will need to contend with black spot and powdery mildew on your roses almost every year.
Regular fungicide applications are needed to control both of these diseases. These treatments should also control Botrytis blight and other foliage diseases. You will probably also need to treat for mites and insects. Regular treatments of a pesticide are needed when mites and insects are present.
Here are a few important pointers to control rose disease:
Spray weekly with a fungicide to control powdery mildew and black spot. To rid your roses of insects, use a systemic rose care product. When spraying for insects and/or rose disease, be sure to coat the undersides of the leaves, since many if the diseases and insects that infest roses live there.
To ensure full coverage, spray until the solution drips off the leaves. Six hours of sun a day helps your roses stay healthy. Morning sun is best because it dries the dew off the leaves, helping to prevent fungus diseases.
Unfortunately, the sun does not help when it comes to mites and insects. When spraying your plants, thorough coverage is important in controlling rose pests. Apply pesticides only according to label directions and only when pests are present.
Remember to use caution when using pesticides. Do not inhale or spray on skin or in eyes. You best bet is to wear rubber gloves when applying any pesticide.
Proper pest identification is necessary to know which chemical or organic rose disease treatment to apply as well as the proper application time. Specific pesticides are suggested for each pest. The pesticides are listed by the common chemical name found in the active ingredient area of the product label.
Look for the appropriate active ingredient on the label and verify that the product can be used on roses. Some pesticide products are ready to use, while others require preparation. Also, some pesticides are harder to find and may require more effort to locate. Always read and comply with the pesticide label to get proper and long lasting rose disease control. Get more Rose Disease care in the Rose Gardening Handbook.
May 18th, 2010
Weeds are simply undesirable plants growing in the places you don’t want them. Even though they are undesirable, they insist on growing in your garden anyway.
The best of gardeners go through this, too. The good news is there are methods for reducing the weed problem
Weed your roses frequently and compost them. Weeds and roses compete for moisture, food and light. A weedy border will have poor air circulation, increasing the chances that disease will take hold. Watering regularly is helpful when weeding your garden. This keeps the soil moist enough that when you pull the weeds out, the roots will come out too. You can pull the weeds by hand or yo can use tools.
Mulching is a good idea too because it helps keep maintenance to a minimum. By mulching, your roses require les watering and it helps keep the weeds from growing. Plastic placed under the mulch will provide weed control for several years. In most home gardens, mulches supplemented with regular hand weeding or rouging (digging out the entire plant, roots and all) should provide satisfactory weed control.
Mechanical cultivation devices such as hoes must be used with care because roses are shallow rooted.
Weed killers are another option for getting rid of those nasty weeds in your rose gardens. However, you have to be especially careful when using them so you dont get any on your rose bushes.
Certain weed killers will not only kill the unwanted weeds, but they can also harm or even kill your roses. When using a weed killer, you will have to spot treat the weeds. This ensures you are only treating the unwanted weeds and not your whole garden.
So, whether you are a beginner or an expert gardener, remember that one of the most important factors to having a great rose garden is keeping it weed free. Remember to research the type or roses you are growing or wish to grow. There is plenty of information and tools out there to help you get started and help you maintain a beautiful, lush rose garden.
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April 26th, 2010
When you’re planning a vegetable garden, there’s more to consider than just what plants grow in your area. In fact, that should be your secondary concern as you get ready for your vegetable garden planting.
There are four questions you need to ask yourself before you even begin planning a vegetable garden:
- What do you and your family like to eat
- How much of these things CAN you eat
- How much space do you have for growing vegetables
- What grows best in your area
Taking these factors into account before you even begin will prevent you from wasting the food you grow, making vegetable gardening just that much more pleasant. After all, the sight of rotting vegetables after you’ve done all that work to plant vegetable gardens is never pleasant.
Vegetable Garden Planting:
Depending on how much room you have, you might consider vegetable container gardening. In fact, if you already have a flower container garden that grows a little tall, you can plant some herbs in with the flowers and make a border out of lettuce.
Green onions, carrots and herbs all make excellent vegetable container gardening plants, and are actually nice green plants to look at.
Also, when planning a vegetable garden, plan for the timing of harvesting your crop. Just because you get a million seeds in a packet doesn’t mean you have to plant them all at once. If you plant everything at once, it will all become eatable at once. Plant a few seeds the first time, then maybe a week or two plant a few more depending on how long it takes them to grow.
Hopefully this gives you some ideas to start planning a vegetable garden, and also how to do your vegetable garden planting so you’ll be eating fresh garden greens all summer long – and beyond!
For more good advice, check out Bartholomews All New Square Foot Gardening Cookbook: Taking the Harvest to the Table
April 20th, 2010
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